Description of what happens inside San Jaun Chamula church

Visiting the church in San Juan Chamula is like no experience we’ve ever had. We read in our tour book that it represents a unique mixture of Christian and pagan beliefs, but to see it in action is almost beyond words.

First, you must understand that the village people believe that taking their picture captures their soul, so pictures inside the church are strictly forbidden. Even outside, people shy from the camera. I was nearly attacked by a woman throwing fruit at me when I attempted a picture and it wasn’t of her. Honest!

Upon entering the church, you must first adjust your eyes to the dim, smoky interior. You notice the fragrance of fresh pine needles that literally carpet the full expanse of the tiled floor. Next, you weave your way through people, sitting or kneeling, alone or in small groups. People are dressed in traditional clothing which features a thick-furry type garment, usually a black or white poncho for men and a black–wrapped skirt for women. There are no church pews or benches. There are an overwhelming number of pencil-thin candles sticking up from the floor in neat rows, “glued” to the floor by their own candle wax. Along the walls of the church, there are traditional Christian saints, also with hundreds of flickering candles in front.

On the day we visited, the church was crowded with several hundred people. It happened to be the end of the lunar cycle on the Mayan calendar and village couples were in the church getting their babies baptized. They lined up for just a few moments on a crowded platform where the priest threw water on the child’s head. Then, the next group crowded onto the platform. This jovial procession went on for probably 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, other villagers practiced their rituals inside the church. Shamans are used to assist in the healing process of sick people. We witnessed a group of 4-5 people with a Shaman. They were using a chicken, as part of a healing ceremony. We also noticed many people brought Coca Cola into the church and often the bottle was lined up on the floor with the multitude of candles. We later learned that the villagers believe that burping is a way to cast out evil from the body and thus, the Coke takes on great significance.

As a tourist, I had to resist the temptation to stare. As a person, I wanted to respect the beliefs and rituals being carried out before me in a very real way. We learned that the villagers do not understand the outside curiosity about their church. For them, the use of Shaman, chickens, Coke and the Christian saints are all very normal. I wonder how long the delicate balance between honoring their traditions and the rejecting the growing pressures of the tourist dollar can last. It was a very moving experience. I hope they make it.